Which Camera is best for you

Apr 6

'Which camera is the best'?

A question I have gotten 100s of times in my DM's. My answer?

'The one you can afford/have."

Of course, I give better answers, but that's what I usually mean. I know it's a very cliche answer, and thanks for not wanting to punch me, but it is the truth.

Obviously, the best equipment is worth tens of thousands of dollars, but what's the point if one is shooting in auto-mode with that gear? It's literally disrespectful to the gear ;)

Gear 100% matters, but only if you know how to use it.

Here's your guide to photography gear:

1. Important Tips:

Gear won't matter much if you're a beginner:

Your priority must be to learn the basics (camera settings, composition, lighting, etc).

Don't get too overwhelmed with getting the right camera. If you think you need a good camera to start photography, you're kinda wrong.

Start with whatever you have, even if it's your phone. Learn basics and experiment as much as you can.

I believe most smartphones have manual mode in them (use an app if the default camera app doesn't)

The artist's instinct trumps everything

There's this guy called Jordi Koalitic, he's possibly the greatest phone photographer the world has ever seen.

He has revolutionized phone photography, and it's mainly due to his insane creativity.

You know, when you're limited by resources - your subconscious trains you to get more done with less.

Using an old, outdated camera? That’s not always a bad thing.

Limitations force you to focus on what really matters — light, composition, timing.

For example: when I was younger, I often felt like my gear was holding me back, especially in wildlife photography.

But instead of stressing, I focused on what I could control: the fundamentals and post-processing. That made a bigger difference than any camera upgrade ever could.

One can have the best technical knowledge, but raw artistry will always beat that.

(A mixture of both is deadly!)

Outgrow your gear

Be aware of your expertise level. Beginner/intermediate/expert.

Don't buy a $6,000 camera as your first one.

By buying new gear, your work won't be upgraded if you haven't used the current gear at its fullest potential.

Master your current gear first, then buy something better. That's how you justify an upgrade.

Another thing, I'd suggest not to buy something super high-end if you can't handle it either.

Sure, the quality will be better - but the photos will be the same.

That pressure of living up to the gear can actually hinder your growth.

Know your genre

This is important. You need to know your genre and the relevant gear needed too.

Wildlife photography is hella expensive, primarily due to the advanced gear it may need. I mean you'd generally need a longer lens than usual to close-up shots with animals. (Not so advisable to shoot lions hand-held with a wide angle)

I'm not saying you only need long lenses, but they're very important for wildlife photography.

For wildlife, any focal length with over 300mm is good enough. (70-300, 100-400, 200-600, 150-600, etc)

After you master that, you can then try experimenting with shorter lenses (for new perspectives).

Also, note that the length required would also be dependent on the location:

General African safaris - even 70-200 is fine, sometimes 600 is too much.
Arctic Circle - (600mm advised)
Snow Leopard safaris (some need up to 1200 or more!)

Do your own research on YouTube/Google before travelling :)

Know your budget

Photography is expensive, and it's important to know your budget.

The best tip I can give is this:

YouTube, ChatGPT, and Google are your friends, use them very well.

Be intentional with your research. (Best Cameras for Wildlife Photography for Beginners/Best Cameras for Wildlife Photography under $2,000)

Honestly, it still surprises me when people ask me which camera or lens to buy — especially when YouTube is overflowing with in-depth reviews and side-by-side comparisons.

Sometimes I feel like I’m the worst person to ask... there are entire channels dedicated to helping you make the perfect gear decision. I really don't know as much as the other guys.

Rent/Buy?

Yes, photography gear is expensive for sure. Sometimes, renting might be the better choice, other times - buying is better.

Scenarios where you can rent:

When want to test out gear before buying it: Less risk, a great option.
When you don't shoot as much to justify buying: Let's say you go out to shoot very little: Rather than buying a $12,000 lens, you can rent it for 2 weeks a year whenever you go out to shoot. (Approx $1400-$2000)
When you need something specific: Let's say you're going for a Polar Bear expedition, and it will be the only time you'll ever need a 600mm. Then maybe rent it rather than buy it?

Scenarios where you can buy:

You use it often: Makes more financial sense
You're thinking long term: Whether it's as a career, or as a hobby too.

Anyways, I don't consider myself very technically gifted - but here are a few simple things I consider when selecting cameras/lenses. (Time to get nerdy)

2. Factors to consider when getting a camera

With wildlife photography in mind (even though it applies to all genres)

Autofocus (AF)

You'd want a newer camera because of the latest technology = great quality.

AF system = how well you & your camera can focus and track a subject while shooting - to get those crystal clear images.

With the new cameras, they've got AI AF systems, and they'll make you feel like an eagle locking sharply onto its prey.

If your AF moves like a sloth, you'll miss out on a lot.

Most DSLRs are old now, and their tracking systems are miles away.

FPS (frames per second):

This is basically how many photos a second the camera can take.

A higher FPS = a higher chance of not missing the action shot. Very useful for high speed action like cheetah hunts, sports, planes, etc.

My camera (Sony a9iii) is 120fps and it's overkill - all the freaking time.

Megapixels:

For wildlife? More is better.

Because it allows you to get more details than usual, and that's important for wildlife because we are usually not close.

This detail then allows you to have more freedom to crop your photos - without losing much quality.

Sensor type:

-- Cropped sensors: Cheaper, older - but they do help you get more reach.

-- Full-frame Mirrorless: Newer tech, overall better performers.

Brand:

Select a brand that you know will support you in the long term - in terms of variety.

For wildlife, you 100% have to be shooting either Sony, Nikon or Canon.

Why? Because they serve a huge wildlife photography market - which means they'll always be developing cameras and lenses for all levels.

Yes, there are other brands who are slowly getting into the space - but they are so far off.

No, you can't just be using a Hasselblad for wildlife.

3. Factors to consider when getting a lens

Range

You don't want to be shooting a lion portrait with a wide angle while it's 30 meters away.

Always consider the range and its relevance to the genre. (Research)

Zoom/Prime lenses

Zoom lenses are lenses whose focal lengths can be changed. For a 100-400mm lens, you can shoot at 136mm and even 399mm. You just have to physically twist it while shooting.

They are great for people starting out because they give you the flexibility to compose your shots from different lengths.

Prime lenses have fixed focal lengths. They are usually sharper and faster. Advisable for more experienced photographers that can challenge themselves with a fixed perspective.

F stop

That stands for the aperture - one of the 3 main light settings for any camera.

Aperture represents the depth of field - or more simply - how blurry your background will be from your subject.

Lower f-stop numbers = smooth, buttery background blurs - but also way more expensive.

Prime lenses + low f-stops? You're ready for war.

E.g 400mm f2.8

Third-party/normal

The Sigma 150-600mm lens is the best budget lens out there. It's cheap, and it's got an insane range.

However, it's a third-party lens - meaning they create lenses for other brands.

The issue with them is that they're generally less sharp and faster. You'll always get better results with original lenses like Sony-Sony, Canon-Canon.

Teleconverters?

These are small lens accessories that automatically extend the existing reach of a lens. For example, if you put a 2x teleconverter on a 600mm F4 lens, it instantly becomes 1200mm - but F8.

Teleconverters will increase f-stops, therefore you'll have low light performance issues - and you won't get those blurs as much.

Extra glass, whether it's teleconverters or adapters, will always impact the image quality a little.

Conclusion

You'll always compensate with one thing or another.

Instead of worrying about making the right decision, make the decision right.

This one was for those who are very confused about photography gear. Hope this made things a little bit clearer for you!

Message me on Instagram or hit reply to let me know if you found this useful :)

Until next time,

Dhir